Custom 3D-printed miniatures have become one of the most popular upgrades for tabletop RPG sessions. Instead of using generic tokens or expensive pre-painted figures, you can now create exactly the character you imagined — whether it's a tiefling warlock with custom horns or a homebrew creature your DM invented last session.
This guide covers everything you need to get started: how to get 3D models, which printer to use, what settings work best, and common mistakes to avoid.
Step 1: Get Your 3D Model
Before you can print anything, you need a 3D model file. There are three main ways to get one:
Option A: AI Miniature Generators
AI generators let you describe a character in plain English and receive a 3D model in minutes. This is the fastest option if you want something custom without learning 3D modeling software. You type something like "a dwarf paladin in plate armor holding a warhammer" and get a unique model.
Platforms like BlastMini, Meshy, and 3D AI Studio offer text-to-3D generation. BlastMini is specifically built for tabletop RPG players and also generates battle maps alongside miniatures. Most AI generators export in STL, OBJ, and GLB formats.
Option B: Parts-Based Builders
Tools like Hero Forge let you build a miniature by selecting pre-made components — head shapes, armor pieces, weapons, poses. The results are consistent and always printable, but you're limited to what's in the parts library. You can't create anything truly original that doesn't exist as a pre-made asset.
Option C: 3D Modeling Software
If you know Blender, ZBrush, or similar tools, you can sculpt anything from scratch. This gives maximum control but requires significant skill investment. Many players use a hybrid approach: generate a base model with AI, then refine it in Blender.
Step 2: Choose Your Printer
There are two main types of 3D printers for miniatures. The choice comes down to detail quality vs. ease of use.
| Feature | Resin (MSLA/SLA) | FDM (Filament) |
|---|---|---|
| Detail quality | Excellent — captures fine details like chainmail, facial features, and thin weapons | Good for larger models, but fine details (fingers, thin swords) may be lost |
| Surface finish | Smooth, ready to paint | Visible layer lines (can be sanded) |
| Cost (entry level) | $150–$300 (Elegoo Mars, Anycubic Photon) | $150–$250 (Ender 3, Bambu A1 Mini) |
| Post-processing | Requires washing (IPA) and UV curing | Minimal — remove supports, optional sanding |
| Safety | Resin is toxic — needs ventilation and gloves | Safer — PLA is non-toxic |
| Best for | Serious miniature printing at 28mm–32mm scale | Terrain, larger models, quick drafts |
For tabletop miniatures at standard 28mm scale, resin printers are the clear winner. The Elegoo Mars series and Anycubic Photon Mono are popular entry-level choices that produce stunning detail for under $200.
Step 3: Understand File Formats
You'll encounter three main file formats when downloading 3D miniature models:
- STL — The standard for 3D printing. Contains mesh geometry only (no color or texture). This is what your slicer software needs. If your goal is to print and paint a miniature, STL is what you want.
- OBJ — Similar to STL but can include texture and material data. Useful if you want to edit the model in Blender or ZBrush before printing.
- GLB — A compact format optimized for web viewing and game engines. Great for digital tabletops, sharing with your group, or importing into virtual tabletop software. Not typically used for 3D printing directly.
Most AI miniature generators including BlastMini export all three formats, so you can download whichever suits your workflow.
Step 4: Slice Your Model
Slicing converts your 3D model into layer-by-layer instructions your printer understands. The slicer software varies by printer type:
- For resin printers: Use Lychee Slicer (free tier available) or ChiTuBox. Import your STL, orient the model, add supports, and set layer height to 0.03–0.05mm for maximum detail.
- For FDM printers: Use Cura (free) or PrusaSlicer. Set layer height to 0.08–0.12mm and enable supports for overhanging parts like outstretched arms or capes.
Bad support placement is the #1 cause of failed miniature prints. Place supports under any part angled more than 45° from vertical: arms, weapons, cloaks, wings. For resin, angle your model 15–30° off the build plate to reduce suction force between layers.
Step 5: Print and Post-Process
Resin Post-Processing Workflow
- Remove the print from the build plate (use a metal scraper)
- Wash in isopropyl alcohol (IPA) for 2–3 minutes — use a wash-and-cure station or a jar with IPA
- Remove supports with flush cutters before curing (resin is softer pre-cure)
- UV cure for 3–5 minutes per side under a curing station or direct sunlight
- Sand any support marks with fine-grit sandpaper (400–800 grit)
FDM Post-Processing
- Remove the print from the bed
- Clip supports with flush cutters
- Sand layer lines if desired (220 → 400 → 800 grit)
- Optional: apply a thin coat of filler primer to smooth the surface before painting
Step 6: Paint Your Miniature
Painting is where your miniature comes to life. Here's a minimal starter workflow:
- Prime — Apply a thin coat of spray primer (grey is most versatile). Citadel, Army Painter, and Vallejo all make miniature-specific primers.
- Base coat — Apply solid colors to each area (skin, armor, cloth) using a small brush. Thin your paints with water (roughly 1:1 ratio) for smooth application.
- Wash — Apply a dark wash (like Nuln Oil or Agrax Earthshade) over the entire model. This settles into recesses and adds depth instantly.
- Highlight — Dry-brush raised edges with a lighter version of the base color to make details pop.
Even a simple prime → base → wash takes a miniature from "grey blob" to "recognizable character" in under 30 minutes.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
- Printing without supports — Overhanging features will fail. Always check orientation and add supports.
- Layer height too thick — For 28mm miniatures, stay at 0.05mm or below on resin. Thicker layers lose facial details.
- Skipping the wash step in painting — A single wash adds more depth than hours of careful brushwork.
- Using thick paint — Thick acrylic paint fills details. Always thin your paints. Two thin coats beats one thick coat.
- Printing models face-down on resin — The face is the most important detail. Orient it away from the build plate and supports.
Getting Started Today
The barrier to entry for custom 3D-printed D&D miniatures has never been lower. AI generators can produce a unique model from a text description in minutes, entry-level resin printers cost under $200, and the tabletop community has extensive guides for every step of the process.
If you want to try generating a custom miniature before investing in a printer, BlastMini's free tier lets you create 10 miniature concepts at no cost — you can download the STL files and either print them yourself or send them to a print-on-demand service.